HELP w/ Photinia - Leaf Spot Disease
jreincke
18 years ago
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rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7
18 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
18 years agoRelated Discussions
Apple leaf disease mystery w/pics
Comments (8)Thank you all again: Don, the oil was for the mite explosion and worked very well. In the past 2 years the tree has shown some of the yellowish spots which I recognize as CAR but they have been few and far between and never developed past a wimpy infection. This year I never saw a single one of those spots which would have developed further into what I once saw on the Jonafree one year before I knew what CAR was, what it looked like and began using Immunox. This year the CAR spore releases wer spread out over about a 6 week period due to several light rains, pain in the butt for my spray schedule. All the other trees were sprayed and look fine. The tree is certainly resistant but is not immune if symptoms are the judging factor. Didn't realize the CAR could hammer the fruit also, guess I'll add it to the spray schedule in the future. BTW, bagging the fruit last season may have avoided the summer diseases. Every apple tree in town had flyspeck and sooty mold on all the fruit, mine had none at all, hope that continues to be the case. Glenn/Scott: I looked up FELS and examined leaves w/the 14x loupe, can't see anything resembling fungal structures, an outer ring or dark speck in the middle. It really looks like something was splattered on the leaves that killed the cells only where it landed but the Jonafree next to it looks fine (it received the spring fungicide sprays as well as well as the oil sprays). The Freedom fruit looks fine too, so far. I don't know. Here is a blow up of the spots on the upper leaf surface. Not as good detail as with the loupe. Michael...See MoreLeaf Spot Disease-Roundup Before Overseeding?
Comments (4)Hi Gurneegrass, The first question that confronts you is which of the modern KBG grass cultivars are most resistant to leaf spot in your area (if any of them are), particularly since your cultural practices are apparently correct but not working. Look at that bag of galaxy, see what cultivars are there, and then look up their various resistances to your disease, in your locale, at www.ntep.org. If they have not performed well, consider ditching the Galaxy in favor of a custom blend, which we could help you with. Galaxy is very well regarded stuff, but if those cultivars just happen to not work well in your area don't be reluctant about trying to put together a blend that will work better in your area. To answer the second part of your question, I think that a full renovation: rounding up, watering to encourage weed germination, and then rounding up again, then preparing the soil, and maybe even rounding up again (depending on how much weed growth you have at that point), and then re-seeding, and watering and fertilizing religiously from then on, is actually easier to pull off than a "simple" overseeding, which would require you to make some harsh choices that will either harm or help your new seeds or establised grasses, and there is no way to strike that balance easily. When to mow, how much to water, how much more fertilizer to apply, etc. Your "new" grass will need attention different from what your "old" grass will while it is trying to get established, so until the new stuff really establishes next year you will always be compromising something - unless you renovate the whole area all at once. Then the maintenance becomes incredibly simple. Not to beat a dead horse, but one benefit of a complete renovation is that before you even lay down any seed you can really work the soil over, everywhere, to get good seed contact, with either a power rake using flails or a core aerator. Another is that if you use Round-up as recommended (at least twice, and watering between applications) you will kill off most of your weeds, and even the new ones that start out after you disturb the soil by either aerating or power raking, so long as you keep watering and then apply that final dose of roundup. And if you fertilize with a product containing Siduron, you can keep the crabgrass and a couple of other grassy weeds at bay while the new grass starts to establish. I'm sorry for the long post, but I hope something in there helps. Good luck! Paul...See MoreHelp ID grass disease - dollar spot?
Comments (3)>"My lawn is looking great since I took control of it " HE!! YEAH, atta boy Chris, it looks fantastic! I'd say leaf spot. Refer to this link - http://www.ces.purdue.edu/extmedia/BP/BP-103-W.pdf >"We've had a bit of rain lately" That would be the cause along with warm, humid evening temps. >" Worth treating or let it ride out? " Tough call, Chris. * You more than likely will loose those blades, yes. * If the weather continues to be warm, it will spread by mowing. (wash out the undercarriage of your mower!) On the other hand ... * It is cooling down and the evening are beautiful. Less/no chance for fungal problems. * September and October are optimal growing times (when well feed) so the KBG will repair itself. * A bag of Heritage G from Lesco is expensive, about $80 http://www.syngentaprofessionalproducts.com/pdf/labels/SCP1323AL11108.pdf As it cools down, lower your mower slowly. This will help dry the grass now in fall. With the lowering sun's angle in fall, the shorter grass allows the sun to keep the soil from being shaded, keeping the grass warm, dry and growing. By last cut and last fertilizer drop (Thanksgiving?) aim for +/- 2.25 - 2.5 inches tall. Then in spring, with the shorter cut and last fertilizer drop in autumn, the sun can warm the soil easier, allowing the grass to green up sooner and easier. Spring will bring damp and wet conditions again, and again the shorter grass can dry out easier to prevent future fungus problems. Then as it warms ... just do it again - grow a beautiful lawn again like you just did this year! Hats off to you!...See MoreNeed help w/disease I.D., please (photo included).
Comments (2)The two on the left look like edema to me. As for the one on the right -- if it's scale, the critters should easily lift off wth a thumbnail....See Morejreincke
18 years agojean001
18 years agojuliang
17 years agobrizzyintx
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13 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
13 years agonativetexas
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
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7 years agolast modified: 7 years agomaureeng53
6 years agoByron Harris
14 days agolast modified: 14 days ago
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