Milehigh, Quite in to the figs with 70 or so varieties but it is a relatively new obsession for me and while I am reading and learning as much as possible I can make a mistake BUT from the way I understand it..... Some figs do have a big breba crop but need the wasp for the main crop, they are called San Pedro types and Desert King is one of them. On most common figs the breba fruit is bigger but inferior to the main crop figs in quality and that is why most people if they can only get one crop due to the length of their growing season shoot for the main crop figs and forgo the brebas. In really really short season areas the breba fig is about all they can get to mature. BUT it still needs protection because the embryo figs for the breba crop will be damaged at like 15-20 degrees. In zone 5 you should be able to ripen main crop figs if the plant is in a favorable south facing location, ideally against a wall. Probably easier for you to have it in a pot though. Pots offer the advantage of being able to move it out on warm days and the pot heats up and the fig grows earlier. Yes that means if cold weather is predicted you would have to move it back inside where it would not freeze. Breba figs grow on last years wood so it would be lignified (brown).....main crop figs grow on wood that grew in the current year and would still be green...well should still be green when the tiny fig first forms. Later in the summer that wood will turn brown. There are a ton of growers in the north east part of the country and up in to Canada that grow the figs in pots and successfully ripen the figs. It does take some dedication. There are some very hardy types that will grow planted in the ground and survive though in zone 5....they may need protection. I'm in Florida so that part of the hobby I am not well versed in:) Part of the process that helps is the pinching out of the apical tip every 6 leaves. If you don't do that the fig wants to just keep making green growth and by the time it decides to make figs it is way too late to be able to ripen them. If you pinch the plant it will produce the figs much earlier in the growing season so they will ripen before your first frost. This post was edited by bamboo_rabbit on Mon, Sep 30, 13 at 11:48

This could be my machine, so I'd best be sympathetic. Varnish is quite the problem...what is the best solvent for this substance ? I am a user of spray carb cleaner, but I also have some acetone and some mineral spirits.. Gasoline, even as expensive as it is, is still inexpensive as a cleaner.

Cultural solution first. Water deeply and infrequently based on the grass. When it looks thirsty (won't spring back after stepping on it or looks dry) then water at least an inch. Put a small can (tuna cans are ideal, but anything will do) in the area of the sprinkler so you know how much your putting down. Cut high with a sharp blade. Fertilize. It may be too hot for chemical fertilizer. If you don't have an aversion to Milorganite it would be ideal. Apply at the rate on the bag. Some may offer that fertilizing is wrong, but from your description the grass is weak and it needs food. Feed the grass and kill the weeds is how I see it. Fixing the weeds. Before you apply the Menards product read the label to see if it is effective on crabgrass. If not, then your local big box should have a product that would work. Bayer and Ortho are pretty good products. Hose end sprayer seems to work well. Same stuff should be available in granular if you prefer spreading, but liquid seems to work faster. Just follow the directions. Towards the end of August or first half of September you should plan on overseeding (cut grass short gradually, core aerate, apply new seed and fertilize). There are several threads with some great instructions on renovation. Patience. It will take some time to heal. Renovation this fall will be your best time to improve the lawn.

That's odd, I have Cincinnati, OH listed as Zone 6a/6b (you're right on the border). Regardless, Ohio is completely compatible with bluegrass if that's what you want. You may or may not. Personally, I consider bluegrass to be the grass against which all others are measured--and found deeply wanting. But that's because I'm willing to put in the time and effort to optimize performance. And money, let's not forget the money. Bluegrass has absolutely terrible drought resistance, but phenomenal drought tolerance. Or, it wilts quickly and has to be watered, but survives drought very well by going dormant and simply waiting it out. It's the most demanding of the northern grasses in terms of feeding, and really objects if you give it less than 4 pounds of nitrogen per thousand square feet per year, delivered just the way it likes it (small amounts in late spring, large amounts in fall). In terms of disease and insect resistance, it's about average. However, planted as a single species (a monoculture), any disease it's susceptible to will run rampant. That's why we suggest multiple cultivars with different resistances to counter that. Planting a single cultivar (a monostand) is asking for trouble (but it can be done). Properly managed, it's an intense green with blue overtones (mine throws blue topaz highlights in sun that, regrettably, don't photograph at all well), a strong grower, and capable of filling in any holes without much additional encouragement. It feels like carpet underfoot. Improperly managed, it's a sickly yellow-green, grows weakly, and gets patchy. Just like any other neglected grass. Plantings are slower to develop than other species, and sprout far slower than most others, so you have to keep after the watering on the seed bed for far longer. If that's what you want, and you're willing to put in the effort, I'd suggest Midnight II, Prosperity, and Moonlight SLT cultivars for you if you want the darkest colors and excellent performance. Award and Bedazzled are two other suggestions, but the Bedazzled won't be quite as dark a green. If the idea is kind of daunting, fescue and ryegrasses are easier to manage but do require occasional overseeding in fall.