I have been wondering the same thing. I saw it at a local flooring store this weekend and the sales person was raving about it.

The issues with most European White Oak comes from the FINISH or the stain and not the wood itself. A MATTE finish = people complain about HAZING or cloudiness of the floor AND they complain about 'foot prints'. These are FINISH or GLOSS complaints and not 'wood' issues. People who purchase the WIDE planks will complain about the COST to install them (wide plank = MUST have glue or glue assist install). And then they complain that the wood 'splits' because it is so wide. The splitting is NOT a wood issue, it is a HUMIDITY issue (any wood will split if you don't have the right humidity). Wire brushed finishes are A B!TCH to maintain! They get dirt into the little grooves and that dirt NEVER comes out. And they stain if oil hits them. Again the GROOVES grab the oil and get it to sink INTO THE WOOD faster. Again this is NOT a wood issue but a finish issue. People who purchase oiled floors (UV cured or not...doesn't matter) have ALL the complaints above. Again this is a FINISH issue and not a WOOD issue. Now IMAGINE adding ALL of these things together in ONE plank. It's common to find WIDE plank European Oak that is a FUMED and OILED finish in a house that does NOT have humidity control. Wow! That's an issue waiting to happen. Lots of human complaints about the total package...not realizing it isn't the WOOD. It is the FINISH they chose.... What product are you LOOKING at? Check to see if they are 'wide plank' or 'matte' finish or 'Oiled' floors. Then check to see if they are fumed or whitish in colour. And now check to ensure your home has the RIGHT humidity control for the plank you are looking at.

I have Happy Floors but in Citrus Blossom. I was lucky to see the polished tile in a show room shower. It comes in unpolished which we used on the floor. There was a choice of small tiles, again unpolished fir the shower floor, we went with the mosaic square. Mine is silver. I looked up your first one. I love neutrals. I agree to either but a box or get a few samples. I’m assuming you did not see them installed in a showroom?

@louislinus I can easily envision it on a "big picture" level what I want to do, and how I want it flow and function. Regarding flooring, I had several contractors come out. In my house, the majority of the main floor is oak strip hardwood. It's a bi-level house, so come in, go up a half-flight of stairs, and then you are facing the current dining room, the hallway to the bedrooms, and the current living room - all in 1970's oak hardwood. Since I'm combining the existing kitchen (old vinyl tile in a discontinued pattern) with the dining room (oak hardwood), my options were: 1. Leave the flooring as-is in both rooms (which would look stupid) 2. Find the some of the discontinued vinyl tile, rip out the hardwood in the dining room and extend the vinyl into the dining room (also stupid) 3. Rip out both floors and put in an entirely different floor (such as a ceramic/porcelain tile or LVT that looks like that). While possible, I didn't want to go that route - I could easily see the tile getting cracked/broken if someone dropped something heavy on it, it would make the house flooring seem more "patchwork-like" because as a person comes up the stairs, ALL the flooring choices can be seen at once (it's not a huge house), and then I felt adding a ceramic/porcelain tile would just create even more possible-clashing patterns, as I knew I wanted a natural stone countertop. 4. Find a hardwood flooring specialist who believes he can either match, or do a near-match, with putting a new hardwood floor into the existing kitchen space and go from there. I'm choosing option #4. My issue is trying to make sure that the layout is maximizing functional storage, while still allowing proper flow in the room. My kitchen and dining room are currently identical in size - 10'x13'. The wall that divides the two rooms is a 7' length on the 10' aspect. Removing the 7' length of wall will make the new room 20'x13'. I want an island, to include storage and seating, running lengthwise. The problem is that a 13' deep kitchen is pretty much the bare minimum space for an island, and whether I have an island that is 33", 42", or 51" wide (including countertop overhang) really is going to depend on how much aisle space we can live with around the sides of the island.