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Flooring Kitchens Design Dilemma

Hardwood discontinued redoing kitchen

9 days ago

last modified: 9 days ago

We are redoing the kitchen of a home we bought, and the hardwood is discontinued I’ll need some to replace where the island is currently. Has anyone had any creative solutions to this issue? Or does anyone know where to find discontinued pre finished hardwood? It is a thinner builder grade that would not be able to be sanded down or matched . It would have to be the same product. It is an Anderson product called Casitablanco in Monterey Gray.

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Comments (8)

dan1888
9 days ago
Buy ANDERSON, MONTERREY GRAY, CASITABLANCA COLLECTION, AE040-00510, 5 INCH WIDE HEAVY SCRAPED KUPAY, SHAW ANDERSON WOOD FLOORING | Request For Quote | Oflooring, IRVINE, ORANGE COUNTY, CALIFORNIA Email them for info.
sherchicago
Original Author
9 days ago
last modified: 9 days ago
Thank you Dan. I did see that and contacted them. It is out of production, and they don't have any more in stock.

Any other leads are appreciated!
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Our house had oil-based poly floors when we moved in, they were trashed anywhere there was much use within four years. I refinished the two most used rooms that were the worst using Bona Traffic, a waterborne finish and the floors still looked like new 10 years later. We then had all the floors professionally refinished using oil polyurethane, having been sold by the flooring guy who insisted it was "just as good" (also a Bona product)so that they'd all look the same and there was obvious wear patterns by three months later when we moved out. The kitchen floor was wet every day for all 10 years it had the waterborne finish and there was never any discoloration or damage. Not sure what axe Olek is grinding, but it's completely inconsistent with my experience. Applying the waterborne finish perfectly is much more difficult than oil, which I expect is why many pros don't like it. I recently did my workshop floor with "mixed domestic hardwood" and finished it with Bona Amber Seal which popped the figure in the curly and birdseye maple quite nicely and the Bona Traffic HD product. It's had the heck beaten out of it for the last six months with construction and heavy tools being dragged around on it and underneath the grime it's pristine and shiny. Oil poly is beautiful, at least until you actually use it.
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It’s 3/8” thick whereas the other one was 1/2” so my contractor floated it to make it level. The color is not *exact* but it is a pretty close match for texture, sheen and bevel. Color is close enough that I don’t think anyone will notice once it’s all in. Or at least that’s the hope!
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Have you checked here: https://www.truehardwoods.com/product/armstrong-metro-classics-pecan-natural-wild-pecan-3-4210pnyz/ https://www.hursthardwoods.com/Armstrong-Metro-Classics-3-Natural-Wild-Pecan-Hardwood-Flooring-4210PN/ You may be able to turn up some old stock somewhere. Otherwise, I think I would go with a different width of the pecan rather than switch species. I'm wondering that if you can find some 3" stock somewhere but it's not enough for the job, maybe you can mix 3" w/ other widths. (For this to maybe work, you would have to have 3", 5", x" planks all from the same line, same mfg.) I've seen floors that have a mix of different width planks and think it looks fines.
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OK...the solid hardwood is factory finished. That's fine. It means that you can choose a solid factory finish so that EVENTUALLY you can get all of this refinished at the same time AND STILL end up with the same floor throughout. What you do is find the SPECIES of the hardwood and the width (and the thickness)...and if you can find the same grade/cut. Sure you can run it perpendicular to the hallway...so long as you are NOT on wood joists. If you have wooden subfloors the direction of the joists will dictate the direction of install. Regardless. So long as you get the same species in solid, you can always sand/refinish everything at once = same floor throughout the home. You do not have to do it today...but it gives you the BEST option to do it later if you want...or just before you put the house up for sale.
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artistsharonva
8 days ago
I hope you find a match for your flooring.

Maybe contacting a local floor company to come over & offer some suggestions & see if they can find a match for you. That can be a challenge once discontinued trying to find that on your own..

Sometimes builders or previous owners leave extra leftover pieces in basement or attic or garage.

If there's another room or closet that's not as obvious, has same flooring that can be relocated. Depends on how it was attached, if it can be removed without damaging.

Or a creative solution is a " rug tile look". It's when tile or something different is installed around the perimeter of the island. If done right, it can look good as an accent.

This post has some photo examples.

https://www.houzz.com/discussions/4502541/tile-around-the-island-only

Hope you find a solution that works & turns out beautiful :)
sherchicago
Original Author
8 days ago
Thank you so much for your suggestions and for the links to the photo's. I was wondering if there were some examples out there.

I hope I find a solution too! :)
PRO
BeverlyFLADeziner
8 days ago
You don't want wood in the kitchen. The kitchens always sprout leaks and then the floor has to be replaced. Select a contrasting tile for the floor NOT LVP
chispa
8 days ago
I'm on my 4th house, over 25 years, with wood floor throughout and in the kitchen. I wouldn't want any other flooring and definitely not tile (other than in bathrooms, laundry & mudroom) None of those kitchen have sprouted leaks! And if a rare leak did occur, that is why we pay crazy money to insurance companies.
PRO
Beth H. :
8 days ago
last modified: 8 days ago
I would get the same size plank made from a solid wood (same species if you can) and get it stained to match. it's an easy color so matching shouldn't be a problem. A custom wood flooring specialist should be able to do all of this for you. Toughest thing to match is the hand scraping. How many square feet do you need? you're removing an island and need to fill it in? you aren't replacing the island?

(wood flooring in the kitchen is fine. I've dropped lots of water on my floors and they've been fine. you only run into issue if the water sits and gets absorbed. An engineered wood floor is better since it's more forgiving w/moisture. And if you 'spring a leak' that is going to ruin wood floors, then it's also going to ruin LVP. no flooring is meant to sit under water. Besides, that's what insurance is for)
sherchicago
Original Author
8 days ago
I am replacing the island, but the island that is here now is extremely large and on an angle. We are straightening it out and adding add in a doorway. We need about 25 sq feet of flooring to cover up the blanket spaces. The previous owner had tile under the island (I assume he replaced the tile with this wood sometime during his ownership. So I don’t have wood under the island. I agree that the scrapping is going to be the problem for a refinished. That may be my best option. I also don’t want tile in the kitchen. Although it’s most practical, I prefer wood. Tile would still require an entire tear out of this floor (glued down on concrete) and the open concept makes starting and stopping a challenge. I don’t think I like the look of tile under the island only as a solution. My quest continues…..

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